McCall's 8045 - Colorblock Tapered Utility Pants

2:45 PM

McCall's 8045 - Colorblock Tapered Utility Pants - Erica Bunker DIY Style!
Tapered pants with ankle details, be it button taps or ties, are one of the hottest trends of this season. They're everywhere. Since the pandemic, I've been living in stretchy pants and I'm ready to toss them aside. Utility-inspired cargos in everything from twills to suiting fabrics are in my feeds and now on my mind. 
I was inspired by this style. And McCall's 8045 just made since. The princess seams were designed to be colorblocked.
McCall's 8045 - Colorblock Tapered Utility Pants - Erica Bunker DIY Style!
For my pants, I sewed them using my Janome Memory Craft 15000 and the Janome AirThread 2000D.
McCall's 8045 - Colorblock Tapered Utility Pants - Erica Bunker DIY Style!
My fabric is two different shades of khaki cotton twills with some stretch. I've had them for a while, but I'm pretty sure they came from Mood Fabrics. I cut the size 16 and graded to the 18 at the hip and back to the 16 through the legs.
McCall's 8045 - Colorblock Tapered Utility Pants - Erica Bunker DIY Style!
These days, there is just no getting around not doing a full seat adjustment for pants. 
McCall's 8045 - Colorblock Tapered Utility Pants - Erica Bunker DIY Style!
I made a 1.5" adjustment on the back and the side back pieces and half an inch to the crotch length. I also added three inches to the length.
McCall's 8045 - Colorblock Tapered Utility Pants - Erica Bunker DIY Style!Before adding the waistband, I took 3 inches off the waist and made the adjustment on the waistband also.
McCall's 8045 - Colorblock Tapered Utility Pants - Erica Bunker DIY Style!
I also added darts to the yoke for additional shaping.
McCall's 8045 - Colorblock Tapered Utility Pants - Erica Bunker DIY Style!
These aren't things that anyone would expect you to know to do if you're new to sewing pants. I've been sewing pants to fit my ever changing body for so long, that I know how I want them look and fit.
McCall's 8045 - Colorblock Tapered Utility Pants - Erica Bunker DIY Style!
I decided to match my topstitching thread to the fabric. It looked "cleaner" that way. I used 3.0mm stitch length.
McCall's 8045 - Colorblock Tapered Utility Pants - Erica Bunker DIY Style!
I used denim buttons. I like the hard edge that they gave the pants.
McCall's 8045 - Colorblock Tapered Utility Pants - Erica Bunker DIY Style!
I added the tabs which are just an epaulet that I pulled from another pattern and played with the length.
McCall's 8045 - Colorblock Tapered Utility Pants - Erica Bunker DIY Style!
I really love this detail. It feels so modern. And it's also a great way to draw in and further taper down a straight-legged pant that might look a little boring.
These are a fun spin on a pair of khakis or chinos. I needed a good neutral in my wardrobe, but I didn't want basic or boring. And these will be great this fall with sneakers and t-shirts.

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13 comments

  1. You look Fantastic in these Unique pants. You are truly an inspiration!

    www.madamtoomuch.com

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    Replies
    1. Thank you so much!

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    2. They are awesome and the fit and a spot on!

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  2. Oops : * is spot on

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  3. Simply stunning. So many cool details on these pants, even the side pockets look amazing. My next project is pants and your details on the fit adjustments you made are helpful. I like the darts on the back yoke -- never would have thought of that but makes good sense.

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    Replies
    1. I had a crazy amount of gaping in the back. The darts were definitely needed. Thanks!

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  4. I love these! Rare to find a button fly pattern. Beautiful fit!!

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  5. These turned out great! Who is the designer from the inspiration photo?

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    Replies
    1. I don't remember. I had a screenshot on my phone for a while. I think they're from Frame. Thanks Crystal!

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  6. These pants are super nice and the fit is flawless!

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