I've been on this style since last summer. I was drafting and pattern hacking my own tie-front cutout pieces. So, when I saw these new patterns this year, I knew my love of this style would continue.
When I saw Vogue 9312, I knew this would be something I'd want to wear. I don't sew a lot of knits, but if it's something that works with a ponte style knit, I'm all in. That's why I picked this fabulous black and white printed ponte knit.
I cut the size 14 in the bodice. I knew from eyeballing the bodice that it would clearly need a FBA.
Here is how my 1" FBA looks.
The darts provided excellent shaping.
For the skirt, I cut the B length.
The bodice is attached to the skirt with a 3/4" seam allowance that creates a casing for 3/8" elastic.
This dress is so comfortable. It looks great with heels and just as great with a pair of flat sandals. I will definitely enjoy wearing it.
After I made my last dress, I had about a yard and a half leftover of that amazing stretch crepe. I normally keep the amount as close as possible to the amount needed for a project, but I bought extra because I liked it just that much.
McCall's 7750 was a great way to use up the rest of my fabric. I cut the size medium and I didn't have to make any other alterations. It's very generously sized.
The sleeves are open really wide, exposing the entire sides. So you would need to wear a cami (preferably a racerback style with thin straps) or a bandeau like me.
The only thing about this top is the way the sleeve is tacked. I went the extra mile on that part, because I could see that easily snapping apart if you're lazy about it.
The back has a keyhole opening with a chainloop closure. If you need more of a visual for how to do this, here is my tutorial.
Overall, I like this top. I questioned whether I would after I was finished, but then I saw that I am SUPPOSED to wear it layered over something and it all made sense then. So, this will be something that I reach for often, because of how easy it is to just throw on and wear.
With all of the royal wedding hoopla, I was reminded of Pippa Middleton's fabulous bridesmaid dress. But, since I didn't have a need for a gown, I decided I would go with the short version.
I've had these pictures of the Alexander McQueen Cowl-neck Silk Crepe Dress saved for years. It's one of those patterns that I've kept on my to-sew list, and I'm finally knocking it off of my list.
I used Butterick 5710. I had to make a change to the pattern to get to my inspiration dress. Even though I've had this pattern since it was first released, I'd never looked at the instructions. Even though the illustration on the front of the envelope and the technical line drawing gave the impression that the short version of the dress is a sheath dress... wrong! So very wrong! It was meant to be cut on the bias. That would've cause the hem of the dress to flounce out. And that is not what I wanted!
I cut the front bodice and drape in a size 14. I cut the front skirt in a size 16. And I cut the back in a size 16.
For the back, I straightened the side seams and the center back edge. I lengthened by 5 inches, because this is drafted pretty short. And I added a walking vent. For the front skirt, I added 5 inches and straightened the side seams. I cut the bodice and drape on the bias as directed. But, if I were to make this again, I would cut the bodice on the straight grain. My fabric is stretchy enough as is, and I feel that it's not as stable as I would like. I cut the back and the front skirt also on the straight grain.
The bodice is low-cut. But not too low to wear with a regular bra. But, if you're making this and it's too low for your level of comfort, you can alter the pattern. This dress was drafted for 1/2" raglan shoulder pads. If you don't like shoulder pads, you can't just opt out. You'll have to remove the ease from the shoulders.
My fabric is a beautiful raspberry polyester crepe with stretch that I showed in my last fabric haul video, that I bought from Fine Fabrics in Atlanta. My lining is a stretch poly lining that I picked up from Jo-Ann. Even though this pattern only has 6 pattern pieces, this is a pretty fiddly dress to sew. And I added to the level of difficulty by adding a vent. But, it was a labor of love, because I really wanted my inspiration dress and I wasn't going to settle for anything less!
There is no chance of me ever tiring of jumpsuits. So, when I saw Vogue 9321, it immediately went into my shopping cart. And then I found the perfect fabric: this gorgeous Sea Blue Polyester Crepe from Mood Fabrics.com. The texture kind of looks like gauze and it's a woven with 4-way stretch... it's amazing.
I cut the size 14 in the bodice and the size 16 in the pants. I had to make quite a few alterations.
The number one problem I had with this pattern is that it has no bodice alteration lines. So, I had to figure things out. I always have to lengthen a bodice by at least an inch. I really had to wing it on this one, and this is how the alteration looked on the bodice front.
I also added an inch to the back.
For me, this bodice is "bra-friendly". I figure, it would also depend on the width of your bra band.
For the pants, I made a few alterations to the pattern.
My alteration was a full-butt adjustment. This prevents your pants from dipping in the center back and causing a wedgie. I did this by adding 1/2" starting at the crotch point. And also, near the notches, I cut the pattern apart horizontally beginning at the center back side leaving a hinge at the side. Spread the pattern apart and insert a wedge. Mine is about 1.5". If you need a larger amount added, you have to split this alteration apart in two places. And I added a little bit more on the side to make sure that the pockets wouldn't be pulling.
To insure that I didn't have any wardrobe malfunctions, I tacked the bodice at the center front.
Overall, I like this jumpsuit, it's perfectly comfortable. I wore it out and I thought it might be fussy, but it wasn't. Everything stayed it place. The only part I don't like is the elastic waistband... I just don't think it's cute. Probably why the put a big wide sash on the model on the pattern envelope! But, it's not a dealbreaker, because I have plenty of belts that can save the day.
You ever see cute pieces online and save them to your Pinterest and then make the decisions that you're going to actually create your own version? Oh... just me? LOL I pin so many things almost daily. But ever so often, there are the ones that just grab my attention. They aren't always the most elaborate, but things that I find that are interesting and wearable.
Take these two garments. These are cute little wardrobe basics, but with trendy little details that make them fresh for the season.
In order to capture to the essence of the Sonia Rykiel top, I decided to use Simplicity 8609, view C.
With this pattern, I was more than halfway to my inspiration garment. All I needed to do was make minor modifications.
My sweater knit is from Joann's. I cut the size 14. The main change is the sleeves. I used the sleeves from view A because of the length. Where the pattern would have you leave a slit, I finished the entire sleeve head and the armholes of the bodice.
And attached the sleeve to the bodice using silver glass beads (from Joanns). I also lengthened the bodice by adding a band. I wanted my top to sit at the top of pants that aren't designed to be high-waist.
And here is a close up my neck line finish. For this project, I used my walking foot. I find that's the easiest way to keep sweater knits from stretching.
The pants are my 3rd version of McCall's 7726 (I made a pair for Mikaela too). My fabric is this amazing Italian Navy Pin Striped Blended Linen Woven from Mood Fabric.com. This time I made view B.
I cut the same size and made the same exact modifications as I did for my shorts. But, being that these have a slimmer, tapered leg, the fit is completely different.
Here is my pattern alteration: A full-butt adjustment of one inch and I lengthened the crotch on both the back and the front by ½ an inch. And they still felt a little snug through the thighs. If my fabric had been a stretch woven, it wouldn't have made a difference. But since this fabric has no give, I notice every bit of the fit.
They're still comfortable, but I was surprised at how different they are from the other view. Two different pants in one envelope.
Like with the previous pair, I interefaced the facings. I omitted all of the topstitching... you wouldn't be able to see it anyway. I added the belt loops to this pair.
And instead of using the sash, I made a belt with a buckle, like my inspiration pants.
I'm already in love with both of these pieces. Navy is such a dark color, but something about it for these pieces feels so fresh for spring!