DIY Sweetheart Strapless Tie-Front Cutout Jumpsuit + Tutorial

If what you want doesn't exist, create it! That's my wardrobe building philosophy. So when I saw my inspiration jumpsuit, I had to create a similar look. It wouldn't let me sleep! The retail ad I'd previously looked at followed me around the web. Then I saw two celebrities wearing it. I felt like the sewing universe was washing my face with this look. I was going to be creatively paralyzed until I got this out of my system, so I got started.

Johanna Ortiz Javari Jumpsuit

When I'm preparing to copy an inspired look, I study all of the details and look closely at the lines. This jumpsuit has a strapless, sweetheart neckline; tie-front, knotted bustier bodice; a cutout above the midriff; a high, wide banded waist and pleated wide legs with a center back lapped zipper.

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Now, to achieve my look: first, the bodice. I have a bodice block that I created a while ago. So I could've drafted a strapless bodice from that. But in all honesty, I've never had a problem fitting a bodice from any of the Big 4 companies, so I opted to forgo the hassle and just modify a commercial pattern. I see this as no differently than cooking something from scratch vs buying something ready-made and doctoring in up. It's all about how much time you're will to devote at that moment.

For my bodice, I pulled Vogue 8849 from my pattern collection. It's currently out-of-print, but any strapless, sweetheart bodice with princess seams will work. What I loved most about this one is that it comes with cup sizing. That eliminates having to do a FBA.

I cut a size 14 - D cup bodice and modified it with the ties and the cutout.

This is how it looked with the added waistband.

The bodice is boned and it has bra cups.

For the pants, I used McCall's 7167. 

I had previously made the culotte jumpsuit, so I knew how these would fit.

Since I made culottes the first time with this pattern, I only had to add length and finish these pants with a 2 inch hem. And I finish the entire thing off with a center back lapped zipper. 

And my fabric is this Rayon Crepe Woven from LA Finch Fabrics.com.

Here's the video tutorial: