Vogue Couturier Design 2925 | 1970's Vintage Fabiani Coat!
8:30 AM
I love coatmaking! I love the art of tailoring a coat. I've learned that so many people are intimidated at the thought of sewing a coat. I'm a dive into the deep end, head first kinda sewing gal. So when it comes to tackling a sewing project? I ain't never scared! (A double negative was needed to convey that feeling!) But I do understand how overwhelming some can feel when it comes to fully tailoring a coat. It's a lot of steps and the best skill you can possess? Patience.
The reason why I've fallen in love with vintage coat patterns are the drafting, the pattern pieces and the instructions. In the past, I would have had to draft interfacing pattern pieces and sew with a stack of reference books. And based on all of the things I've learned from multiple tailoring resources over the years, these instructions are comprehensive and everything I needed to make this coat.
Vintage patterns come in single pattern sizes. I used the size 14. The sizing and ease is generous. I can wear a blazer underneath this coat with comfort. I added 3.25" to the length. That was the only fit alteration I needed. My fabric is a pretty basic Black Solid 100% Wool Coating from Mood Fabrics.com.
The fronts of the coat are interfaced with hair canvas. (If you need to buy some, be sure to use my coupon code in the sidebar.) In order to stay the roll line of the lapels, I used 1/4" black twill tape. Here is a previous post discussing the hair canvas interfacing and my machine padstitching. The collar is interfaced exactly like the lapels.
The backstay is also cut from the hair canvas. I normally use plan muslin fabric. But the pattern suggested the interfacing. I was concerned that the hair canvas would be prickly with only the barrier of the lining fabric. From wearing it briefly for the photos, I didn't feel anything. Here's hoping it stays that way.
The back of the coat also has an interfaced Martingale.
The pattern did not suggest this, but this is where I do my own thing. I know how I like to set sleeves in jackets and coats. I ease the sleeve cap with bias strips of hair canvas. See the details here on Tailoring a Coat Sleeve.
If a pattern suggest shoulder pads, use them! If you're making a coat and it doesn't suggest shoulder pads, use them anyway! Even a thin set, about 1/4" thick can make a difference. I make my own. I've talked about that here and here. In my sewing group, The Amazing Sew-Alongs, we discussed using fleece shoulder heads.
Since I set my sleeves with the bias cut hair canvas strips, the sometimes act as shoulder heads. I make a judgement call on how the sleeve is hanging regarding whether or not I need to add an additional sleeve head. For this coat, I didn't.
Before I added my lining and I was trying on the coat, there was a glaring detail missing: pockets!
I don't remember which one I used, but I grabbed a patch pocket and flap from another coat pattern, measured down from the shoulder and placed. I topstitched it in the same manner as the other topstitching.
This Michael Kors coat was my inspiration.
Here is the inside! Y'all know I love beautiful insides. I'm never ashamed to allow someone to examine my garments inside and out.
The lining is completely handsewn instead of being bagged. Instead of doing a basic cross stitch to secure the back lining pleat, I just use a cute embroidery stitch. And I added a hang chain that I also bought at Jo-Anns. I added a contrasting color piping between my lining and facings. The hem of the coat is interfaced -- of course. A "Jump Hem", which is a pleat formed at the lower edge for wearing ease is created. Also created at the sleeve hem as well.
The coat was sewn with Schmetz needles in Universal size 80/12, 100/16 with Gutermann Mara 100 in black. And topstitched with Schmetz 100/16 topstitch needles, using Coats & Clark Button Craft Thread c/o Coats & Clark.
And love that when I take this coat off in public and turn it inside out and toss it over a chair, the inside is just as beautiful! My lining fabric is Black Flannel Back Satin from Jo-Anns.
And it also looks and hangs beautifully when undone.
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87 comments
What a wonderful coat, Erica! It'perfect for you!!! I hope one day I can create a coat like this! I have a burda's pattern very similar to it and I want to sew it...one day...
ReplyDeleteI saw that Burda! It's beautiful! Thanks Deborah!
DeleteStunning!
ReplyDeleteThanks Barbara!
DeleteActually makes me think of an Alexander McQueen coat...
ReplyDeleteThat's I high compliment! I love that brand! Thanks!
DeleteHey Erica - I look at all your wears.
ReplyDeleteI will give a moment of silence for this one.
'Nough said.
Kimberly
I second the moment of silence!!!!
DeleteThis is gawgeous!!!!
Thanks Kimberly and Nylse!
DeleteGorgeous coat! You should be so proud as you wear it. You dont sew a coat...one has to "build" a coat. You did a beautiful job! Thanks always for your inspiration!
ReplyDeleteI love that -- "Build a Coat"! Thanks Eleanor!
DeleteYass, girl! I'm here for the coats! You do a fabulous job on these and this is why you are my fave blogger right now! You the YKK on MY zipper, Mama! I love your tailoring. I've been looking for the other cost pattern you did with similar lapels and can't find it in my size. Any similar new patterns out there that I don't have to draft my own horsehair and lining pieces for? Thanks for inspiring
ReplyDeleteI think it's pretty much these vintage ones. The pattern companies need to do better! Thanks Hannah!
DeleteYour coat game is outrageous! Super inspiring. I hope to follow in your footsteps one day soon.
ReplyDeleteThanks Cindy!
DeleteThis coat is so cool, so sharp and so classy. Every time I read your coat creating posts, I am just in awe!
ReplyDeleteThanks Pam!
DeleteWhat a great coat! I look forward to your coat posts every year:)
ReplyDeleteThanks Angela! I enjoy making them so much!
DeleteBrava!! This looks like the Burda coat I hope to make (in grey). Gorgeous. Thank you for talking about the details. I know it can be really monotonous. But, it's so fun to read about the insides. I may actually try machine tailoring instead of fusible for my next coat project (it's cashmere). Ummm, can you tell us where your boots are from? They are fabulous
ReplyDeleteThanks Cidell. They're old and from a local store... some brand I had never heard of.
DeleteAbsolutely beautiful coat erica. ������
ReplyDeleteHa sorry they were supposed to be clapping hand emojis.
DeleteThanks Sewmanju!
DeleteA gorgeous coat for a gorgeous lady. Worthy of an Ohio winter - lol.
ReplyDeleteThanks Robin! Waiting on those cold days now!
DeleteThis is so amazing and thanks for sharing so many details. I wish your Joann's was my Joann's, you find good fabric and notions at yours. Mine is just fleece!
ReplyDeleteI am going to have to remember the decorative stitching at the back pleat, another nice detial.
We have a newer Joanns Superstore. It's pretty nice. Thanks Lori!
DeleteFabulous and it's impressive how it ressembles Michael Kors's. Nothing's new under the sun.
ReplyDeleteNothing at all! Thanks Marie!
DeleteAbsolutely beautiful coat. Great job!
ReplyDeleteThanks KMQ!
DeleteI am in awe! What a fabulous coat.
ReplyDeleteThanks Charlotte!
DeleteWhat a fabulous coat! It's beautiful inside and out! You've just inspired me to make my own!
ReplyDeleteAwesome! Thanks Kathy!
DeleteI am in awe. You did an amazing job on that coat. Wow!
ReplyDeleteThank you so much!
DeleteThis coat is stunning. What an amazing job you did with this coat! Wow!!!!
ReplyDeleteThanks Tomasa!
DeleteHi Erica....the machine padstitching you do...how is this done?? Could you talk more about this. I also bought the book you suggested...I'm still confused. I wish you taught a class:(
ReplyDeleteLora, it's just a serpentine stitch... it looks similar to a zig zag but with rounded corners. It's just a matter of stitching up and down and across.
DeleteThank you for your response...it really look more complicated than it is apparently:)
DeleteErica,
ReplyDeleteSo absolutely gorgeous, you wear your coat well!
Thanks Sheri!
DeleteBeautiful coat Erica!
ReplyDeleteThanks Levone!
DeleteGorgeous!!
ReplyDeleteThanks Vicki!
DeleteSo fabulous! You did an amazing job and I appreciate all your tips!
ReplyDeleteThanks Jenny!
DeleteEveryone of your coat project have been fabulous and this one is no exception.
ReplyDeleteThanks Kelly!
DeleteYou're creation has my imagination bubbling......thank you. And excellent work! Love the bias hair canvas strip as sleeve head. Enjoy your coat!
ReplyDeleteThanks Wynne, I will!
DeleteStunning! Fabiani would be proud. I recently discovered Fabiani patterns, I am a fan of his clothes now. The tailoring in his designs is beautiful. This coat is gorgeous, they dont make them Like that any more well if you are willing to pay about $5000 probably you could find something like your coat. You must be thrilled!
ReplyDeleteYou are so correct. You will not find a coat like this in a store. Thanks Word Signs!
DeleteStunning coat, inside and out. I'm often put off double breasted coats and jackets because I tend to wear them open and they can look odd, but yours doesn't at all, as you say it hangs beautifully and evenly. Now I have to figure out why so I know what to look for in a pattern!
ReplyDeleteThanks Allison!
DeleteSigh, this is so inspiring. Mmm, look at that lovely padstitching. What a thing of beauty
ReplyDeleteThanks TwigletQueen!
DeleteSO incredibly beautiful and classic and stylish and everything!
ReplyDeleteThanks Lisa!
DeleteI always look forward to your coats! This is another beauty! I love the contrast piping on the inside and the fit is so 70's chic! Gorgeous work, as always!
ReplyDeleteThanks Sallie!
DeleteWoa! I'm blown away by your skills! So gorgeous..... and chic!
ReplyDeleteThanks Justine!
DeleteFantastic coat, a black coat is such a great wardrobe piece.
ReplyDeleteIt is! I can't believe how long it has taken me to add a long black coat to my wardrobe! Thanks Beth!
DeleteErica, beautiful coat! Your tailoring and sewing skills are top notch!! You are my inspiration. In a previous post somebody said that they wished you would teach sewing classes. Have you ever thought about that, Craftsy online maybe?
ReplyDeleteNo, I haven't considered that. But thank you so much for thinking I'd be good at it! Thanks BPatricia74!
DeleteWhat a beautiful, beautiful coat! While it is always a pleasure to see anything you sew, your coats have an extra-special beauty to them. Do you know, I still think about your camel's hair coat! I hope you enjoy every moment of wearing this new stunner.
ReplyDeleteThat coat will always be a favorite! Thanks ElizabethDee!
DeleteThat is such a gorgeous coat. I really need to fire up my sewing machine again.
ReplyDeleteThanks Karine!
DeleteI'm sitting here with my mouth hanging open! You just amaze me! This is so over the top gorgeous!
ReplyDeleteThanks Norie!
DeleteWow, this coat is amazing. You took great care in the instruction. It's going to last you for years! I didn't know you had a sewing group. I will be joining!
ReplyDeleteThanks Eryn!
DeleteAbsolutely gorgeous! Love it!
ReplyDeleteThanks Clair!
DeleteWow! Eric, you did a fabulous job on that coat! Looks so professional and you wear it very well. Thanks for sharing all the photos! You're very talented.
ReplyDeleteThanks Anita!
DeleteAwesome, Awesome your coats are always Awesome
ReplyDeleteThanks Geannene!
DeleteI'm new to your site and I have to say I'm inspired with your quality of work! I have a lot more reading to do, keep up the great work!
ReplyDeleteThanks Deborah and welcome!
Delete