Erica Bunker | DIY Style! The Art of Cultivating a Stylish Wardrobe: November 2015

Fall 2015

Review: New Look 6413 | A Dressy Casual Jumpsuit!

10:00 AM

Fall 2015

Poncho Season!

10:30 AM

Fall 2015

Review: McCall's 7257 | Faux Fur Gilet!

7:30 AM

Baste + Gather

Birkin Flares from Baste + Gather!

4:15 PM

I haven't had a great jeans pattern since I made my Jalie jeans over 6 years ago. I've been on the skinny jeans bandwagon for a few years and those fit fine right out of the store. So there was no need to sew my on. Now, it seems that flared jeans (not bootcut, because they are TOTALLY different) have resurged. Lauren of Baste + Gather has created an awesome flared jeans pattern -- Birkin Flares. And I was given the opportunity to test out her brand new pattern.

I've never been a pattern tester before. And I probably would never, ever volunteer to be one unless it was something that I felt I would absolutely love and I trusted the drafting abilities of the designer. I'm a very low maintenance seamstress. And I don't want to have to sew anything that will require a lot of muslin sewing and fit issues to work out. So it's obvious where I stand on these.

Lauren created this pattern based on the Madewell Flea Market Flares drafting and sizing. So, instead of making a muslin, I made life a lot easier on myself and just ran by the Madewell store and tried on a pair.

The Birkin Flares' sizing is pretty dead on. I tried on the RTW size 31 and that's the size I cut in this pattern.

The Birkin Flares are drafted with a generous inseam of 34". But since I would only wear flared jeans with heels, I added 3" to the length of the pattern.

I love that they are high waist. You can get a nice fitted jean with no muffin top and no butt crack! There was a slight bit of gaping at the center back waist. Nothing my belt couldn't work out. But Lauren is working that out before the final draft.

My fabric is 11.5 oz Cone Mills S-Gene Denim in Indigo from Thread Bare Fabrics.

My hardware:

Jean Rivets in Antique Nickel

Jean Button in Antique Nickel

9" YKK Jean Zipper in Antique Brass

Topaz Gold Jeans Topstitching Thread

My pocket fabric is broadcloth from my stash. And I used French seams. I sewed these using a Schmetz size 16 topstitching needle.

I love this pattern. And I plan to make a pair in stretch cord with Lauren's revisions!

coats

Vogue Couturier Design 2925 | 1970's Vintage Fabiani Coat!

8:30 AM

I love coatmaking! I love the art of tailoring a coat. I've learned that so many people are intimidated at the thought of sewing a coat. I'm a dive into the deep end, head first kinda sewing gal. So when it comes to tackling a sewing project? I ain't never scared! (A double negative was needed to convey that feeling!) But I do understand how overwhelming some can feel when it comes to fully tailoring a coat. It's a lot of steps and the best skill you can possess? Patience.

The reason why I've fallen in love with vintage coat patterns are the drafting, the pattern pieces and the instructions. In the past, I would have had to draft interfacing pattern pieces and sew with a stack of reference books. And based on all of the things I've learned from multiple tailoring resources over the years, these instructions are comprehensive and everything I needed to make this coat.

Vintage patterns come in single pattern sizes. I used the size 14. The sizing and ease is generous. I can wear a blazer underneath this coat with comfort. I added 3.25" to the length. That was the only fit alteration I needed. My fabric is a pretty basic Black Solid 100% Wool Coating from Mood Fabrics.com.

The fronts of the coat are interfaced with hair canvas. (If you need to buy some, be sure to use my coupon code in the sidebar.) In order to stay the roll line of the lapels, I used 1/4" black twill tape. Here is a previous post discussing the hair canvas interfacing and my machine padstitching. The collar is interfaced exactly like the lapels.

The backstay is also cut from the hair canvas. I normally use plan muslin fabric. But the pattern suggested the interfacing. I was concerned that the hair canvas would be prickly with only the barrier of the lining fabric. From wearing it briefly for the photos, I didn't feel anything. Here's hoping it stays that way.

The back of the coat also has an interfaced Martingale.

The pattern did not suggest this, but this is where I do my own thing. I know how I like to set sleeves in jackets and coats. I ease the sleeve cap with bias strips of hair canvas. See the details here on Tailoring a Coat Sleeve.

If a pattern suggest shoulder pads, use them! If you're making a coat and it doesn't suggest shoulder pads, use them anyway! Even a thin set, about 1/4" thick can make a difference. I make my own. I've talked about that here and here. In my sewing group, The Amazing Sew-Alongs, we discussed using fleece shoulder heads.

Since I set my sleeves with the bias cut hair canvas strips, the sometimes act as shoulder heads. I make a judgement call on how the sleeve is hanging regarding whether or not I need to add an additional sleeve head. For this coat, I didn't.

Before I added my lining and I was trying on the coat, there was a glaring detail missing: pockets!

I don't remember which one I used, but I grabbed a patch pocket and flap from another coat pattern, measured down from the shoulder and placed. I topstitched it in the same manner as the other topstitching.

This Michael Kors coat was my inspiration.

Here is the inside! Y'all know I love beautiful insides. I'm never ashamed to allow someone to examine my garments inside and out.

The lining is completely handsewn instead of being bagged. Instead of doing a basic cross stitch to secure the back lining pleat, I just use a cute embroidery stitch. And I added a hang chain that I also bought at Jo-Anns. I added a contrasting color piping between my lining and facings. The hem of the coat is interfaced -- of course. A "Jump Hem", which is a pleat formed at the lower edge for wearing ease is created. Also created at the sleeve hem as well.

The coat was sewn with Schmetz needles in Universal size 80/12, 100/16 with Gutermann Mara 100 in black. And topstitched with Schmetz 100/16 topstitch needles, using Coats & Clark Button Craft Thread c/o Coats & Clark.

And love that when I take this coat off in public and turn it inside out and toss it over a chair, the inside is just as beautiful! My lining fabric is Black Flannel Back Satin from Jo-Anns.