Vogue Paris Original - 1023 | A Vintage Christian Dior Mohair Coat!
1:45 AM
Every year I make a coat. It's something that I look forward to and I'm always excited when I plan my project. For the longest time, I've had this gorgeous vintage Vogue Paris Original (#1023) - 1970s Christian Dior coat in my collection. But I had never been able to find the perfect fabric. I wanted something "fuzzy", just like the pattern envelope.
And I found fabric that was absolute perfection. This heathered gray fuzzy mohair-blend from Mood Fabrics (from my monthly allowance for my MSN monthly project) just epitomized everything I was looking for. And as a plus, it was gray. I am completing all the neutral outerwear colors in my wardrobe and then I'll start of the fun colors!
This is my first foray into the truly vintage patterns arena. I've done "older" patterns, but nothing as old as this one. This pattern came in only one size. And I bought it in a 14. If I were purchasing it now, I would've bought a 12. But I'm happy with the sizing because it leaves enough wearing room to wear this coat over a suit if needed.
The only alterations I made to the pattern pieces were adding length... my usual. And I also wanted to make sure this was a full-length coat -- on me! I wanted another coat that would be just as long or longer than skirts or dresses. I hate when a coat is slightly shorter. I added 3 inches to the length of the coat. And I added an inch to the sleeve length.
Even though I would normally tailor a coat anyway, I felt so lucky that this pattern is so comprehensive. It came with its own tailoring instructions and pattern pieces for all of the interfacing. How awesome is that?! And why don't modern coat patterns come with such details? McCall Pattern Company? Simplicity? Anybody? These instructions were so easy to interpret that if you're attempting your first coat, you could easily achieve amazing results with this one. One thing about the convenience of having all of the pieces included is that it saved me hours on creating interfacing pattern pieces from scratch. I felt like I was getting a coat making course just from the instructions.
For my coat, I blocked interfaced the entire yardage before cutting. Even though this fabric is of a heavier weight, it's still very drapey. And I needed for the body to be sturdier.
Here is the interfacing: The front interfacing and the back stay are made from muslin. Even though the pattern did not suggest or provide a pattern piece, I created a shoulder reinforcement made from hair canvas. This ensures a smooth line from shoulder to bustline.
Here is the lining and the facing. And also the back linining with a center back pleat for ease. The last piece is the collar, which is interfaced with a fusible that extends 5/8" beyond the foldline.
I drafted my own 1/4" shoulder pads for a custom fit. I created a pattern using the front and the back pattern pieces of the coat. The shoulder pads are created by layering fleece, each is reduced by 3/4". I used the sewing machine needle to created perforated lines so that I could just tear off and keep going. The layers are stitched together on top of a layer of hair canvas the size of the largest piece.
The sleeves are drafted perfectly. They set without any easing. I created sleeve heads with the same fleece as the shoulder pads.
This is practically a couture coat. But the only shortcut I'll take each time I make a coat is to bag the lining. For me, there is simply no point in all of that excess hand sewing when the lining can be sewn by machine. The width of my coat hem is 3". And in order to achieve a perfect "jump hem", I trimmed the bottom of the lining to the same length as the finished coat hem. Turn the coat back to the right side and slipstitch the hole.
Here is the finished inside.
Here is the finished outside and a closeup of the topstitching. I added snaps to the inside. I found that a size 100/16 needle worked best for this fabric and sewing through all of the layers. And it also made topstitching a lot easier with my heavy weight thread.
I had the hardest time trying to find a belt for this coat. I wanted something that tied, but not a self belt. I found black woven belting in the trim section at Joanns. Close enough, right? Well... no. LOL. I decided if you want something to be a certain color, then make it happen. So I grabbed a can of spray paint and made me a gray belt. I've never done this before, so I don't know how this will wear. But until I find a replacement, I still have a full can of paint for touchups.
My lining fabric is crepe back satin from my stash that looks and feels really luxurious.
I thought I was head over heels in love with my camel hair coat from last year. But I believe I have a new love... until next time!
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124 comments
Beautiful! Thank you for the detail explanation too. I appreciated learning about the hair canvas technique. Love your style and photographs.
ReplyDeleteThanks Barbara!
DeleteThe coat is gorgeous
ReplyDeleteThanks Dk's Wife!
DeleteIf you hear someone running up behind you, its probably me stealing this coat! Thank you for sharing all the details. I learned some new things. Very very inspiring, Erica!,
ReplyDeleteHa! LOL! Thanks Cidell!
DeleteAnd then I'll run up behind her! LOL!! This coat has trumped my fav. The Pea Coat!!!! You have out done yourself!!!! It is beautiful!
DeleteAt the beginning of the post, I thought it was a nice transition weather coat that was held closed with a belt, but all that beautiful tailoring--it would keep someone cozy here in Vermont, I thing. I love the top stitching, it looks great.
ReplyDeleteThanks wouldiwearthisinparis!
DeleteSo beautiful Erica!
ReplyDeleteThanks SheriNJ!
DeleteWow, you have done a fabulous job. Just gorgeous!
ReplyDeleteThanks Vicki!
DeleteOnce again superErica to the rescue! My gorgeous cobalt mohair will no longer be languishing in the stash. Just gorgeous.
ReplyDeleteThanks Hillary!
DeleteWhat a perfect union of pattern and fabric! Love all the construction photos.
ReplyDeleteThanks Julie!
DeleteThat is just gorgeous!
ReplyDeleteThanks Karen!
DeleteGorgeous coat Erica!
ReplyDeleteThanks Candice!
DeleteOk Erica.... you are amazing! this coat is beautiful!!! You make it look so easy!!!!
ReplyDeleteYou need to have your own teaching tutorial videos!
And i would have never thought to spray paint the belt. But i'm gonna copy that idea for sure!!
Thanks Felisha!
DeleteBeautiful
ReplyDeleteThanks Kely!
DeleteThis coat is totally swoon worthy.
ReplyDeleteThanks Angela!
DeleteMy jaw is on the floor. This is stunning! You are so talented and I love love love that you made a coat from a vintage Dior pattern. Well done! XO, Jill
ReplyDeleteThanks Jill!
DeleteOMG, Erica! This coat is divine!!! Really Lady, you rocked this one. Kuddos to you for waiting on the right fabric for the pattern.
ReplyDeleteThanks Alicia,
DeleteVery nice job. How tall are you????
ReplyDeleteI'm 5'9". Thanks Serenity!
DeleteThanks for the spray paint idea! It does get frustrating when you have a color in mind and can't find what you are looking for. . . hope it wear well for you!
ReplyDeleteI hope so too. Thanks Joen!
DeleteI have been waiting for this post and it was well worth the wait!! Thank you so much for the lovely detailed photos of the construction. This coat is absolutely stunning, inside and out. Congratulations!
ReplyDeleteNow that you've made this pattern, is it going to stay in your stash or will you send it back out into the world?
I think I'll hold onto it for a little while. Thanks Grace!
DeleteAbsolutely gorgeous Erica!! I was waiting for this post after the sneak preview on Instagram! I am inspired to tackle a coat next year as a friend just gifted me with a beautiful purple wool blend fabric!! Thanks for all the details!!
ReplyDeleteYou should! They're not difficult, just time consuming. Thanks Paulinkoss!
DeleteWhat a great coat! This is truly a unique piece. Bravo!
ReplyDeleteThanks Virginie!
DeleteIf the spray paint doesn't work, try shoe or fabric paint. Either one should work on leather.
ReplyDeleteThanks for the tip Roslyn!
DeleteVery inspiring!
ReplyDelete♥♥♥
Jeanne
http://fashionmusingsdiary.com
Thanks Jeanne!
DeleteLove your coat, beautiful!
ReplyDeleteThanks Omega!
DeleteGorgeous coat!
ReplyDeletehttp://www.bluelabelsboutique.com/collections/jackets-blazers
Thanks Kristie!
DeleteI am in awe. FABULOUS! as always.
ReplyDeleteThanks onefromphilly!
DeleteErica I normally like everything you make but this is my all time favourite. You look gorgeous in it! It is lovely to see all those beautiful sewing techniques used to create this stunning coat.
ReplyDeleteThanks Sewing with a plan!
DeleteYour coat is beautiful but what I really appreciated was you talking/ showing some of the inside workings! Beautiful work.
ReplyDeleteThanks Sewmanju!
DeleteYes and amen. So appreciate that you show the magic that made this beautiful coat. Found you through Alreadypretty.com
DeleteWhat a beautiful coat and the fabric really enhances the total look.
ReplyDeleteThanks AnniinBC!
DeleteIt's so beautiful! I love the 70s and that coat is perfection!
ReplyDeleteThat's one of my favorite periods in fashion as well. Thanks Sara!
DeleteAbsolutely stunning!
ReplyDeleteThanks Trudy!
DeleteGorgeous coat
ReplyDeleteThanks Aminat!
DeleteThe fabric is very much like the inspiration pattern. Great looking coat! I like the fabric a lot. I am not much on fuzzy but this is a nice and expensive looking fuzzy. Great job as usual.
ReplyDeleteThanks Linda!
Deletewow, i am completely in love with this coat! you have such amazing style!
ReplyDeleteThanks petiterepublic!
DeleteIt's stunning!
DeleteThanks Carolyn!
DeleteWow - what a beautiful coat! It's fabulous!
ReplyDeleteThanks Tomasa!
DeleteWhat a beautiful coat. You found the perfect mohair...luck and sewing savvy!
ReplyDeleteThe mohair was an epic find! Thanks Gail!
DeleteThis a really great coat !
ReplyDeleteThanks Threadie!
DeleteGorgeous coat and beautifully styled!
ReplyDeleteThanks Nicolene!
DeleteThis coat is gorgeous! I have been reading your blog for YEARS and never once commented, but I had to because this coat is ERRTHANG! I want this coat pattern in my size for Christmas! Even for the tailoring lessons alone! The finishing and interlining is heavenly as well!
ReplyDeleteThanks a lot Hannah for coming out of lurkdom!
DeleteAbsolutely stunning!
ReplyDeleteThanks Gail!
DeleteAbsolutely gorgeous, Erica! I'm passing along your comments about the instructions to our instruction-writing team. —Meg
ReplyDeleteThanks Meg! It would be wonderful to see patterns with comprehensive instructions such as these.
DeleteGorgeous coat and thanks for taking the time to put together such a detailed blog post.
ReplyDeleteThanks Lucy!
DeleteI want this coat! Thank you Erica
ReplyDeleteThanks for reading Rhonda!
DeleteYou have ot done yourself again, Erica. Love the color, fabric, and style of this coat. Perfect.
ReplyDeleteThanks Kelly!
DeleteErica this is GORGEOUS! I love all the tailoring details you shared.
ReplyDeleteThanks M. Inez!
DeleteYou are an amazing sewist and tailor. I can't tell you how much I've enjoyed this process type post and it's photos and details. More, please!
ReplyDeleteGorgeous coat and it is one of the prettiest things I have ever seen you wear, and there have been plenty!
Thanks Bunny! I'm utterly in love! No still have it hanging out so I can look and touch it!
DeleteOMG! is all I can say. This is SO Gorgeous!!! I just love your work...What a wnderful post you shared here. You will have that coat forever! I'm so glad I stopped by today.
ReplyDeleteThanks Laurie Lou!
DeleteThanks Sing!
ReplyDeleteYou own a Dior, you own a Dior!!! It looks amaaazing, great job! Thanks for showing the details, I'm learning so it's really helpful! Enjoy it!
ReplyDeleteThanks Word Signs!
DeleteOnce again, gorgeous! As always you're such an inspiration. Susan
ReplyDeleteThanks SmileDog Stitches!
DeleteGorgeous!
ReplyDeleteThanks Liza Jane!
DeleteYou look great in this coat! It’s a beautiful coat.
ReplyDeleteWhen I saw the picture, I had a flashback and smiled from ear to ear. I knew the pattern instantly because it was the first coat I made back in 1977. My coat was camel colored mohair/wool blend which I with interlined with muslin and lined with Sunback lining. The coat felt like it weighed a ton and I sweated through the fiercest New York City winters! My all time favorite coat.
I am sure your coat will continue to be a favorite as well.
How awesome is that! This is a great design and that I feel will last decades. I'm so happy I made it -- finally! Thanks!
DeleteOh my gosh it's absolutely beautiful! I just need to say thank you to you, for all the detail on your garments that you post-you've taught me more about couture sewing than any amount of reading about it ever could. I'm a visual learner, and pattern drawings rarely convey what you so concisely describe and accurately photograph. You are entirely responsible for the improvements in my sewing the last couple of years, so the thanks are absolutely heartfelt! Merry Christmas and the very best of new years to you and yours!
ReplyDeleteWow! Thank you so much. That is so humbling. So glad that you're getting something from this blog. This makes it all worthwhile for times when I want to quit. Happy Holidays!
DeleteBeautiful coat. Your attention to detail on the tailoring is wonderful.
ReplyDeleteI've heard of bagging the lining, and it sounds wonderful, but I have no idea where to start. Do you have a tutorial you can suggest... or post one yourself perhaps? Thank you in advance.
Here is one from Threads:http://www.threadsmagazine.com/item/4366/bag-your-jacket-lining/page/all
DeleteThanks!
Wow! I can't stop drooling over your coat! You amaze me continuously!
ReplyDeleteThanks Norie!
DeleteThis is stunning on you! You did a beautiful job on the tailoring. I have this same pattern and have also been waiting for the perfect fuzzy fabric. Is this fabric scratchy at all?
ReplyDeleteNo it's not! But while sewing it, the fibers did get in my nose and stuck to my lip balm! Thanks Ann!
DeleteGood to know! I will definitely be asking for this fabric for my Christmas present this year!
DeleteYou have definitely outdone yourself with this one. STUNNING job! As always, thanks for the details! Is your linking silk or poly crepe back satin? It looks awesome and as I'm searching for a good choice, your advice would be much appreciated. :-)
ReplyDeleteIt's a poly crepe back satin. Either would work. I used what I had available at the time. Thanks!
DeleteWow, this is so gorgeous! The top stitching is a beautiful detail.
ReplyDeleteThanks Jenny!
DeleteJust catching up on my blog backlog and it seems almost too late to comment now, but I can't let this pass. Your coat looks amazing, just like the original. I've never worked with a true vintage pattern either so found your comments interesting, seems like there is a gap in the market there, and I understand better now why they are so collectible.
ReplyDeleteCurrent pattern instructions are sadly lacking in comparison to this one. Thanks AllisonC!
DeleteI'm new to your blog and this coat is fabulous! I'm also just returning to sewing....since highschool .... a very long time ago. You have inspired me to move forward. One quick question in regards to your vintage patterns. Do you cut or trace the originals? Also do you store them in any special way? Any info greatly appreciated.
ReplyDeleteNo... No special treatment. I don't trace anything... Period. That's why I never sew from the Burda Magazine. I don't even see the point in tracing this vintage pattern. It comes in ONLY one size and I don't plan to ever resale it. Thanks!
DeleteI know I am late but, every since I read this post I have wanted this pattern. I finally found it and I am so excited! I cant wait to give this one a try. It looks so fab on you. Love the new website too!
ReplyDeleteI know I am late but, every since I read this post I have wanted this pattern. I finally found it and I am so excited! I cant wait to give this one a try. It looks so fab on you. Love the new website too!
ReplyDelete