Fabric, fabric and fabric were the offenders in these projects.  For the first one, I tried to be overly authentic in my version of the runway garment for the Chado Ralph Rucci.  It was shown on the runway in suede, so I wanted suede too.  Bad decision.  This was the stiffest dress EVER!  It would've been so great had I made this in something like a stretch wool crepe, ponte knit or double knit.  

Self-drafting has always been something I've wanted to do.  I've been studying commercial pattern pieces  as I've sewn for years; understanding how all of those different shapes go into forming pieces of a garment.  But let me tell you that it's still something I'm struggling with learning.  There are certain aspects that I can't wrap my mind around.  And if I had a class in my area, I'd be currently enrolled!  But nevertheless, I'm going to keep trying and keep learning!

Most Worn Garment of 2013

Every year, there is always one garment that I wear to death.  Vogue 1248 is the piece that I've worn more times than I can even count.  These are just the documented times on the blog.  I had no idea when I made this cute little top that it would be in high rotation.  It's a great layering piece because it's sleeveless.  And fits perfectly under sweaters and jackets!

Other pieces I reached for is the leather and ponte sweatshirt.  The black sleeveless blazer was worn a lot.  And I haven't put down my bomber jacket since I finished it!

Most Controversial Garment!

I had to laugh aloud as I typed that!  This cotton/spandex machine-washable white maxi dress sparked the most ridiculous "controversy" over the occasion in which I would wear such a dress.  Sigh...  In case no one remembered, I wore it to eat at a Tex-Mex restaurant with my husband.

The Favorites!

These are the garments that I made this year that really made me proud that I can sew my own clothes!

Happy New Year!

'Tis the season to be sparkling!  What's the holiday season with sparkle and shine?  I'll tell you:  dull!  Don't be dull, add some sequins to your holiday (and beyond) wardrobe. 

My latest addition was inspired by this gorgeous black and silver abstract baby sequins fabric from Mood Fabrics.

When I fell head over heels in love with this fabric, I knew I needed a simple design that would let this fabric shine (pun intended) and let it be the star.  I needed a design that has a limited amount of seams, darts, pleats, pockets and set-in sleeves.  This dress is a blouson-style with an overall looser fit.  It was perfect since this fabric is non-stretch and should be treated like a woven.

I decided to cut this fabric cross grain.  I liked the way the pattern on the fabric fell when lying that way.  When cutting sequin fabric, I would recommend cutting on a single layer and using a rotary cutter.  I say a rotary cutter because the blades are disposable and can easily be replaced with a fresh one.  If you cut with scissors, my suggestion would be to use a pair that are not used to cut fabric. 

This ridiculously easy pattern (Vogue 8961) was a breeze to sew.    I made it straight out of the envelope with very few alterations or modifications.  I only added about three inches to the skirt.  My recommendation while sewing sequins is to use new and sharp needles.  

My favorite part are the sleeves.  I love that they are elasticized and ruched.  

And since I cut the fabric on the cross grain, I was able to just trim around the mesh in the selvage area and use the print design instead of worrying about hemming. 

And while pressing, always press on the wrong side using your pressing cloth.  Because steam and moisture could damaged the sequins.

So, I finally jumped on the midi (mid calf length) bandwagon.  I know that some women feel this is a hard trend to pull off.  Even at 5'9", I had been skirting the issue!  (Pun intended.)  My problem with this style was not the length, because I've made dresses before in this style.

I decided that the full skirts with all of those pleats (God forbid gathers. Eeekkk!), at MY waistline are not my friend!  No ma'am!  However, I do love my full faux-leather skirt.  But in my defense, it's shorter than a midi length -- meaning less fabric!  And the pleats are stitched down from the waist.  A sleeker, fit-and-flare circle skirt works best for me in this length!  That's why I chose Butterick 5929, view C.

My formula for making this skirt work for me is to combine it with a form-fitting top -- tucked in.  A button down or a close-fitting sweater would work too.  Volume on the top AND bottom is not a good look for most women.  You need to pick!  And a waist-cinching belt.  Snatch it in ladies!

And you MUST wear a heeled shoe.  Seriously, there are no exceptions.  Flats are simply not flattering with a skirt this length.  And my number one recommendation would be a classic, single-sole, lady-like pump that exposes the top of the foot to give you a nice long-leg line.  But since I had never worn these booties, I decided these would work.  They're very light, being that the majority of the bootie is mesh.

And I added a my vintage mid-century Stylecraft Miami lucite purse that use to belong to my grandmother.

For me, I chose a leather biker jacket to top off this look.  

Now a "review"...

This pattern is sew-out-of-the-envelope simple and beginner friendly.  I added additional length and a lining.  My fabric is this gorgeous orange silk twill from Mood Fabrics.

This season, bomber jackets have been seen in every print and fabric imaginable.  They were commonly known as a "flight jacket", but now they are everywhere -- from the runway to the streets.  Bomber jackets have trickled down from the U.S. Air Force to the backs of regular women and girls.  They're truly having a moment!

So I decided to fly high with the addition of this classic silhouette to my closet and make it one of my wardrobe staples.  For my jacket, I chose Burda 7210.

Inspiration:

Thakoon Addition Leather-sleeved Bomber and Rag & Bone Aviator Bomber.

This pattern is absolutely perfect!  It perfectly brought my inspiration to life.  It was everything I wanted it to be.

Usually, I find myself having to make crazy alterations to a commercial pattern to get the proper fit.  But this one was great out of the envelope.  Just look at those sleeves!  I didn't even have to add length.  I'm now asking myself why is it that I don't sew Burda patterns more often?!  I shall be rectifying that post haste!  Especially since there have been recent $2.49 sales on them.

But being the me that I am, I did however make some small modifications.  This is a pattern that suggest an unlined garment.  With my fabric selection:  a black and white/ivory tweed wool-blend that I picked up from Hancock a few months ago, which drapes beautifully and probably should've been some gorgeous dress... I digress...  Anyway...  I underlined with a black crepe de chine that I had in my stash and finished with serged seams.  And it feels so luxurious on the inside.  

And I added leather to the sleeves, also from my stash.  And for the collar, cuffs, and waistband I used a cotton, polyester, lycra rib knit from Mood Fabrics.  And I picked up my zippers from JoAnns.

This was such a fun jacket to make and own.  No tailoring involved, just quick and easy.  This feels like a luxuriously-lined cardigan.  I can tell you right now, this is going to be a piece that I'm going to definitely get my money's worth!

I still had fabric lying about from the last couple of projects.  And while I was about to fold and shelve the pieces, I decided to just use it instead.

This is the patent leather from Mood Fabrics that I used for this skirt.  I liked it so much that I decided to make a patent leather t-shirt.  I used Vogue 8840, view A. 

This top went together really easy.  The only alteration I made was a FBA... didn't want to have that "smushed uniboob" look!  I really love this designs welt seams.  They scream, "Let me be leather or suede!"

It's a simple pullover top with a cute little neck slit opening with a hook and eye closure.  I fused the hems for a cleaner look.

***Sidenote:  When ironing leather/faux leather, I always use a pressing cloth with no steam.

For my simple, single-seam pencil skirt (fabric cut on the fold, based on the your waist measurement with negative ease, with an elastic waist), I used the last yard of leftover red ponte knit from Mood Fabrics that I used for these pants.

I layered my top over a black long-sleeve knit top, added opaque tights and patent leather booties and my pea coat.  

While following street style trends, I for the colder months I always see pea coats, leather leggings and booties paired together.  And it's the perfect uniform for fall and winter. 

I'm calling leather legging a "new classic" because they're not going anywhere anytime soon.  They've become a wardrobe staple.  And they're actually pants whereas lycra legging are not.

"LOVE"

And they look great with pea coats.  I'm quite partial to my pea coat.  I think it's one of the greatest things I've made.  And everytime I wear it, I always receive compliments.  And I'm beaming with pride as people gag when I tell them that I made it!  It goes without saying that I LOVE this coat!

I've been contemplating making another one this year in a bright color.  Maybe after the first of the year.

Wearing:  pea coat: Vogue 2873 (OOP); blouse: McCall's 6651; leather leggings: McCall's 6404; booties: Just Fab.com 'Leander'.

Everything leather and leather-ish is very popular this season.  Leather is not only the new black, but the new everything and it's everywhere.  And I've been playing with all forms of it.  While searching Mood Fabric's index, I discovered this great Donna Karan Black Solid Faux Leather which is a black patent vinyl with a black fleece back and I had to have it!

When I bought it, it said heavy weight, so I wasn't sure what I would make.  I just knew that it looked interesting and I bought several yards.  When I pulled it from the box, it was indeed pretty heavy.  And it had a dull, matte finish.  I was just about to feel disappointed...  But then as I rubbed my hand across the fabric, there came the glossy shine.  So I started mentally planning and perusing my Pinterest boards.

Inspiration:

From Pinterest... Super glossy skirts paired with sweaters and sweatshirts for Fall 2013.

So I decided a pencil skirt it would be.  I was initially uncertain about the weight of the fabric and whether or not the skirt would look too stiff.  But once I started working with the fabric and applying heat to the back side, it became more supple and super glossy.  I used my teflon foot and a leather needle with a looser tension setting and a 3.0 mm stitch.  While practicing on the fabric, I noticed that shorter, tighter stitches looked like they were cutting into the fabric.  I took great caution to make sure I'm wasn't going to cause ripping at the seams.  

I used Vogue 8672 (OOP) because I like the princess seams and it was available in my pattern cabinet. Sidenote:  Vogue 8603 and 8697 would be great too.  Not to mention the fabulous lines of Vogue 1324.

The fabric behaved just fine while I was sewing it on the wrong side.  But once I began edge and top stitching, even with the teflon foot it seemed to want to stick a bit.  So I had to lengthen my stitch, adjust my presser foot and take my time.  And just to zhuzh up the skirt, I added an exposed metal zipper from waist to hem.  The skirt is unlined.  And I debated on what type of hem to use.  I settled upon a machine sewn hem, which I had to pay special care in order for it not to wave.  

I'm really pleased with how my fun and trendy skirt turned out.  I decided to pair it with a casual faux suede three-quarter sleeve top, my army green utility jacket, a pair of black boots and a yellow bag.  I love the different play on textures and a little pop of color.

Wearing:  Jacket: Vogue 1762 (OOP) YSL; top: New Look 6083; skirt: Vogue 8672; boots: Justfab.com 'Nikola';  bag: 3.1 Phillip Lim x Target.

Since it's officially fall in the Deep South, that means it's officially boot season!  

I love a flat over-the-knee boot.  It's a wardrobe staple for cold days when I have a lot of moving and shaking to do.

And they are perfect to pair with skirts.  This time I remixed the look of my pleated leather skirt and sleeveless white collared shirt with a pullover v-neck sweater.  I believe in getting mileage out of the things I make!

I put this look together because I had a lot of errands to run and I wouldn't have time to change for date night.  This look took me from daytime to movie night.  (BTW, The Best Man Holiday was worth the 14 year wait!) 

Wearing: sweater: Ann Taylor; top: Vogue 1248; skirt:  Butterick 5285; boots: Shoedazzle 'Darci'; bag: 3.1 Phillip Lim x Target.