1. Keep working on my tailoring skills.

Check! Did that one! See the tailoring here.

2. Make another "CHANEL" jacket... this will hopefully be soon. I already have one in mind!

Sigh... I really thought I would get this one end before the year was over. But alas, no "CHANEL" jacket. I have the fabric, lining and everything... I just haven't had the time. HOPEFULLY, before the end of January.

3. I still plan to learn to drape and draft!

Still didn't get around to doing this. It's going back on the list.

4. Sew more for my family, especially Michael!

I've got to do better! Mikaela was the only one I sewed for this year. I made a pair of shorts and capri pants and her birthday dress.

5. Perfect my welt pockets. They still make me nervous.

I didn't really do many (if any) garments that had welt pockets. This is going to the new year also. I can do welts and bound buttonholes, but just not as well as I would want to.

6. Sew more basics (i.e. t-shirts, white shirts, jeans).

I decided not I'm not going to even bother doing t-shirts UNLESS it's something so fabulous that I would never find in a store. I have fabric now for my white shirt that I never got around to making. But I did make everyone's favorite Jalie jeans!

7. Sew a tailored jacket.

I did do this! I wore my tweed riding jacket last week!

8. Commit to sewing atleast six BWOF garments.

Nope, I didn't do this and I don't feel bad about it either. For me, the prep part of sewing (i.e. laying out, cutting, pinning, alterations, etc...) is the WORSE part. I just can't make myself add to it by having to trace off a BWOF. Who knows... I may change my mind in the new year.

9. Try a Marfy pattern. Even though I rarely read the pattern instructions, it's nice to have them. :)

I didn't get around to doing this either. Again, who knows...

10. Take some advanced/expert/couture level sewing classes.

I wasn't able to do this. Unfortunately, there aren't EVER any classes like this in my area. Only beginner's level sewing classes and quilting classes. As soon as I find one nearby, I'll take it. But until then, there are my books and the internet!




10 Dresses
Butterick 5277
Vogue 1086
Simplicity 3503
Butterick 5351
Butterick 5352
McCall's 5845
Vogue 1119
Vogue 1151
Vogue 1117
Vogue 1087


1 Skirt
Vogue 8603


5 Tops
Simplicity 2756
McCall's 5852
Simplicity 2554
McCall's 5929


2 Pairs of Pants
Vogue 1040
Vogue 1059


6 Jackets
Simplicity 2812
McCall's 5525
Vogue 1093
McCall's 5815
McCall's 5936
Vogue 8601


1 Coat
McCall's 5766

Description: Fitted dress, below mid-knee, has pleated and tucked front forming wrap effect. Front extends to back at sides, back has zipper and hemline vent. No side seams.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Other than mine is wrapped the opposite way, yes it did.

Fabric: Ivory Ponteroma Knit (I love that stuff!)

Were the instructions easy to follow? It was to be expected that the instructions would be difficult. This is a Vogue ADVANCED pattern and it lived up to its rating. There were a plethora of markings and I found it easiest to color code the different symbols. I thought Vogue 1117 was challenging, but this one makes that one look like a walk in the park. Needless to say, my seam ripper worked over-time on this project.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I'm a sucker for the designer patterns from runway looks and this one was no exception. I love that it's a Donna Karan design. She most certainly knows how to dress a "woman's" body. The details of this dress is absolutely wonderful. I love the crisscross front and the draping. And the back gives you the look of a tailored sheath dress. I didn't like how the bodice panel was just loose hanging. I kept feeling the need to want to tack it down. And the instructions lead you to believe that all of the seams will be left unfinished. Well, I serged mine and hemmed when I felt it should be done. You'll just have to wing this part based on your own experience.

Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made: According to the finished measurements, I knew I didn't need to do a FBA. The bodice has a lot of ease and was clearly cut for a larger bust. I probably could have cut a size 12 on top. As with most patterns, I had to add 3 inches to the length. I also used a fusible knit interfacing to the zipper area. The skirt back has inverted darts. I didn't want to take a chance that they wouldn't lay flat, so I edgestitched them down.

Would you sew it again? Nope... not a chance... it's already been trashed. Would you recommend it to others? You're on your own if you want to try this one.

I love the look of a sheath dress, so timeless and elegant. During the cold weather months, you can change the look by pairing a turtleneck sweater with a fitted sheath dress. This is a great way to wear your classic dress and not have your arms exposed when it's chilly. It also gives the the dress a more casual look.

Description: Lined, fitted dress, below mid-knee length has pleated bodice, tucked front, invisible back zipper and center back slit.

Pattern Sizing: 4 - 18, I cut the 14.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Actually, it looked more like the original design!

Fabric: Black and White Stretch Wool Tweed

Were the instructions easy to follow? The instructions were well written. But I agree with Allison about the "Average" rating of this pattern. I think it should have fallen into the "Advanced" category. This is not a pattern where you can just gloss over the instructions and go for it. Nor is this an afternoon project. You have to make sure that you make all of your markings, read every step and sew in the order suggested.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I love most of Vogue Pattern's "major" designer patterns. This pattern was identical to the Michael Kors Collection "Starlet" dress. I love the v-neck, the draped bodice and the diagonal seaming that I've been seeing everywhere. I always get sucked in by the details.

I've notice that Michael Kors uses facings on his linings. Anybody else ever noticed that or any other designers that use this technique?

This is one of those unnecessary steps that I feel take this pattern from (what they claim) is "AVERAGE" to "ADVANCED". Now I know earlier, I told you to follow every single step in the order suggested. BUT, this is one of those times where you don't have to.

In order to stabilize the pivot points on the front and back pieces, I used a 2" piece of fusible interfacing on the inside.

"When you know better, you do better." -- Maya Angelou

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes (with the exception of the additional length).

Fabric: Ponteroma Knit

Were the instructions easy to follow? The instructions were very easy to follow.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I'm a fan of Shaun Kearney's designs for Cynthia Steffe, so I was excited that a couple were offered at Vogue Patterns.

Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made: I made a small FBA, added 1" to the hipline and SIX INCHES to the length, because this baby would have been scandalous without it!

Back View
Zipper Close Up
Collar
Armhole
Hem
FBA
and Lengthening

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? No, I will not sew it again... so many dresses, so little time. But I do recommend it. This was a quick sew that only took a few hours from cut to finish.

Conclusion: This is a fabulous little dress that is so trendy and cute. I don't think it would be as special without the exposed zipper.

Description: Fitted shirts A, B have darted front and back, front band, front ruffles and shaped hemline; shirt A has stand-up collar, below elbow length sleeves with sleeve band; shirt B has collar and collar band, full length sleeves with placket opening and cuffs; dresses A, B have sleeves gathered at cap and lower edge.

Pattern Sizing: 4 - 18, I cut the 14.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes... but mine was sort of a hybrid.

Were the instructions easy to follow? They appeared to be. I only used them to see how the ruffles were sewn on.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I'm a sucker for ruffles and this style didn't disappoint.

Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made: I made view A, but added the collar from view B. According the finished measurements, I didn't have to do a FBA. IMO, this shirt had a lot of "extra" ease. I did add an inch length. I wanted to make sure that it would stay tucked. Instead of hemming the ruffles, I used my serger. I used all French seams. And of course I used black interfacing.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? Probably not. I like it, but it's not basic enough to be a "TNT". But I do recommend it.

Project Details:

Pattern: Vogue 8601
Fabric: Brown wool blend tweed
Contrast: Faux suede
Lining: China silk

Description: Jackets A, B, C, D, E are close-fitting, lined to edge and have princess seams in upper section, darts in lower section, back slit, upper and under collar, one buttonhole in waist seam and long sleeves with elbow darts. A: contrast collar and upper section. A, B, C: two buttonholes. B, D: contrast upper collar. A, B, C, D, E: back length is 30".


Pattern Sizing: 4 - 18, I cut the 14.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes, it does!

Were the instructions easy to follow? I didn't follow Vogue's instruction. I consulted my tailoring books.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I love the "riding" style of this jacket. Another great design from Vogue that falls right in line with the "Country Chic" trend. Also, this pattern could be easily translated into an evening tuxedo. I would use crepe back satin using the matte side for the body and the shiny side for the lapels. Hmmm...

The pieces are drafted great, but the only thing I didn't like about this design is that they didn't use a 2-piece sleeve. But this is just my personal preference on tailored jackets (and coats).

Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made: I made a small princess seam FBA. I did the whole tailoring kit and kaboodle. I also added suede elbow patches that I drafted myself. They are sewn on by hand using a blanket stitch.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? I don't know if I'll actually sew it again, but I would love to make a ladies' tuxedo from this pattern. I think it would look great in an evening style. Not sure if I'll ever get around to making it, but I'll definitely keep it in mind. If you like this style, I highly recommend it.

I bumped this post back up to share the author, Faye Penn's jacket! She commented and uploaded the pic! Faye, I think you did a fabulous job on the jacket!

There are a few ways to set a sleeve. I set my sleeves with a bias strip of Armo-Rite. I didn't buy it, I've been recycling a couple of my husband's old ties. As you see, the bias strip is placed on the the wrong side of the sleeve cap and sewn 1/4" from the edge.

Note: While sewing, make sure that the edge of the sleeve cap stays next to the 5/8" marking on your machine!

Description: Semi-fitted princess seamed jackets A, B have separate lapels, flared peplums and sleeve variations.

Pattern Sizing: 4 - 18, I cut the 14.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes, it does!

Were the instructions easy to follow? I barely used the instructions. I've done so many jackets that I didn't need them. I only glanced over them for the the lapels since they are sewn on and not part of the jacket fronts. I also looked to make sure I was doing the peplum correctly.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I love the peplum! And this style of jacket is very "of the moment". Who knew peplums and bustles would make a comeback?! I always like to add trendy pieces to my wardrobe.

Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made: I made a small princess seam FBA. I also did a little bit of "light" tailoring, but interfacing all of the pieces to add structure, with the exception of the sleeves and peplum. I also added a back stay and stabilized the shoulders.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? It's a good possibility that I may sew the long sleeved version since I'm in love with this particular style. I like it, if you like it too, go for it!

I also reinforced the shoulder by adding bias cut hair canvas. Padstitched the lapels, taped the roll line (by hand) so that the lapels lie close to the body without gaping.

Note: This is a very important step, especially for a full-busted figure.

My fabric has a very soft hand. Instead of underlining, I interfaced all of the pieces with a nylon fusible.

In order to stabilize the jacket and prevent stretching across the shoulders and armholes, I drafted a back stay or "half-back interfacing". I used cotton muslin (or you can use any thin fabric), but DO NOT USE FUSIBLE INTERFACING for this part!

This is drafted by cutting it 6" to 8" inches from the neckline and about 3" below the armscye.