Description: Misses Lined Coat in Two Lengths with Collar Variations

Pattern Sizing: This pattern is sized from 4 - 22. I cut the size 14.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing? Yes... almost exactly except for my collar.


Were the instructions easy to follow? Hmmmm... If you've ever worked with one of the Project Runway patterns (or any pattern with lots of variations), you know how the instructions jump all over the place. Well, that was the case with this one. A complete pain in the butt! Make sure you highlight all applicable instructions before you begin. Other than that, they were fine.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? Again with the Project Runway patterns, the yardage is broken down by the variation pieces. I've worked with a few of these patterns and it has been my experience that once you add everything up, it requires you to use way more fabric than needed... way more! Also, there was an excessive amount of ease at the waistline. You would *think* that with princess seams and a waist seam, you'd have more of a tailored fit. Not the case with this one. I cut my normal size 14 and it was HUGE at the waist. I had to bring in the seams about half an inch. Here's the back.

My favorite part of this jacket is the collar. It's a gathered, Peter Pan-style collar that I've been seeing on a lot of RTW and the large welt pockets. What else I love is all of the different variations this pattern included. The possibilities are endless with this!

Fabric used: Remember when I asked about this fabric? And Remember when I got it? I love this fabric! It sewed perfectly with a microtex needle. I mentioned to one of my girlfriends that I was making a jacket in brown and she suggested that the lining should be orange and I took her advice! I found this beautiful orange peau de soie that was a dream to work with.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: I made my usual 1" FBA. I added 1" to the length. Even though the pattern provided an undercollar, it was to be cut in one piece, on the fold. I added a 5/8" seam allowance and cut it on the bias. You can see that here. I also added a center back pleat to the lining and bagged it. I had previously discussed those alterations and the reasoning here. For the lining, I lowered the sleeve caps by 1/2" and the front and back shoulder seams by 1/4". I added 1/2" shoulder pads and sleeve heads.

Instead of buttons, I used snaps. I thought I'd like them a lot more with the quilted fabric... and I do! I also added an embroidery design to the lining (aren't you guys glad I turned on the embroidery machine, LOL) and a hang chain. And here is a close up of the hems.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? I don't know if I'll actually do it, but I would be willing to sew this again. With all of the variations, I could produce a completely different garment. Would I recommend it? If this style suits you, go for it!

Conclusion: Since completing this jacket, I've had it on almost everyday! I've fallen completely in love with it!