Since I made a day dress, I wanted one for cocktail hour too. This pattern is fairly easy, but I still had to make my usually alterations.

Description: Jeans with front pockets with optional coin pocket, fly front, back patch pocket, back yoke, carriers, topstitch detail, slightly low-rise waist (2" below waist) and boot wide leg.

Pattern: McCall's 5329, View B
Fabric: linen blend and cotton batiste for the lining
Notions: Three 1 1/8" buttons

Well, the Nanette Lepore knockoff is finally complete! Yeah for me! I ran into a sizing problem... I guess I miscalculated the finished size. I ended up having to start from scratch, so we'll consider the first a "muslin".

• I went back and cut everything above the waist in a size 16, and the bottom of the jacket in a size 18 (it was originally tight across the hip).
  
• I made a 1" FBA and added 1" to the length.
• Interfaced the entire shell because of the lightweight linen fabric.
• I cut the lightweight interfacing on the bias to provide a better drape.
• Since the pattern did not provide separate pattern pieces, made a 1/4" allowance for "turn of cloth" for collar and lapels.
• The waistband is attached by sewing to the outside of the jacket shell and inserting the ends into the front dart and encasing.
• I cut my darts opened and pressed flat using a tailor's ham to reduce bulk. The instructions suggested pressing to one side.

I can't really tell you whether or not the instructions were easy because I hardly used them because the construction was pretty basic for a jacket. The only time I referred to them was when I put the waist band on. This is a Sew News pattern and they are known for having great step by step instructions and tips throughout.

I really like that this Summer jacket included a lining; I love the elbow length sleeve with ruffle and the semi-fitted style. Since this jacket has a unique style, I think this will be the only one needed in my collection so I will not be sewing this one again, but it is a definite winner.

Is this a style that us "regular women", you know the kind that *DON'T* look like Rhianna, can wear?

If you haven't seen this BBC documentary, you should definitely watch it. The Secret World of Haute Couture is a film that takes a look inside the "fairytale world" of haute couture and its very exclusive club members... there are around 200 worldwide. BBC journalist, Margy Kinmonth gains an exclusive entrance into this secretive world and gives us a guided tour on how this very small segment shops.

Haute couture is French for "high sewing" or "high dressmaking"; refers to the creation of exclusive custom-fitted fashions, made to order for a specific customer, and it is usually made from high-quality, expensive fabric and sewn with extreme attention to detail and finish, often using time-consuming, hand-executed techniques.

I've often wondered what was so "special" about a garment to set a price tag of up to $100,000. After seeing all of the hours upon hours of exhausting HAND work (these garments are primarily sewn by hand, not machine), I can definitely understand. Also, another thing that puzzled me is when these garments come down the catwalk, I've thought to myself, "Who would wear that"?! I saw these very elegant and sophisticated women sitting front row at John Galliano... If you have ever seen his very dramatic work, you would understand my perplexity. One of the club members was asked this very questions and stated that they take aspects from the garment and have it constructed and customized for them (i.e. a little less sleeve, lower the waist, drop the hemline, etc...).

It took me a while to find this film. PBS in my area is not carrying it so I found it here. It's a free download. Enjoy!


Images courtesy of BBC

I got mine, did you get yours?

I'm finally putting that embroidery machine to some use. I've been seeing a lot posts lately on different sites about creating your own labels, everything from having a stamp made to using fancy shmancy pens. I've been wanting woven labels, but as we all know, the custom ones are RIDICULOUSLY expensive. So.... I said, "Why not try the embroidery machine"? And, voila... this is what I came up with.

and if you are a fashionista that truly loves them, you'll love these sculptures. These are the creations of metal sculptress and jewelry artist Julia S. Peerson. These beautiful works will be on display at ArtWalk at the Pepper Place Farmer's Market THIS WEEKEND from 7 am until noon... hmmmm, may have to check this out!

Metalwear is based on abstracted self-portraiture. All of the dresses were made on the same steel form to fit the artist's shape. Every cut, burn and hammer-blow is documented by charred edges, chipped paint, and dented surface texture. The physical struggle that took place in the making of each work is evident. These works grew out of the desire to explain the personal need for a balance between strength and elegance.

Julia had the idea to create jewelry from Metalwear because she could not bear to throw out any of her burned and beaten scraps. The steel is often painted in layers. When scratched or burned, surface color makes way for what exists beneath. Julia feels that every tiny piece of steel deserves scrutiny and that every tiny piece of scrutinized steel needs to be worn.

I know it's only July, but I'm sooooooooo ready for Fall. Here's a great video put together by Nordstrom, previewing their Fall Designer Collections.

Yesterday, as I was beginning to sewing the lining into my jacket... I was dragged away from my sewing machine by my family. I have to admit, I did have fun... it was a welcomed interruption. Hopefully, I'll be able to make more progress today!

This Fall, I'll be starting "Project: Chanel Jacket". This is the wool/cotton/silk blend bouclé that I selected for my jacket. I'll be using Vogue 7975 as my pattern.

While shopping in Hancock's a couple of weeks ago,

to make this dress.Simplicity 3874, View B

I have found these to be two great resources... two that I have been buried in for the last couple of days. JFRP is a great companion book for tailoring a jacket for ANY size that I've come across. If you have not tackled jacket construction and tailoring, this book is a must have for your sewing library. This book provides step-by-step instructions on how to choose and treat the fabric; seam finishes; how to make the alterations; where to add interfacing; welt pockets; bound buttonholes; sleeve heads; shoulder pads; set sleeves and the list goes on. The particular chapter that struck me was the last one on Men's jackets, something I definitely want to try. Here is the chapter list:

1. About Sewing Jackets
2. Pattern Selection
3. Fabrics
4. Shaping Fabrics
5. Great Notions for Jacket Sewing
6. Pressing and Seam Finishes
7. Make Sure it Will Fit
8. Fitting Jackets on REAL People
9. Cutting, Marking, and Interfacing
10. Jacket Front
11. Back and Under Collar
12. Sleeves, Shoulder Pads, and Chest Shaping
13. Facing, Upper Collar, Lining, and Hems
14. Bagging a Lining
15. Buttonholes
16. More Pockets
17. Easy Mitered Back Vent
18. Finishing Touches
19. TIPS That Will Improve ALL of Your Sewing
20. Plaids and Stripes
21. Men's Jackets

The only thing I didn't like... well, I won't say "didn't like", but I wished there had been color photos instead of so many illustrations. BUT, it wasn't hard to figure it out since they are GOOD illustrations.

Easy Guide to Sewing Linings by Connie Long is the only book that I've seen that discusses the treatment of linings in such detail. It talks about how to line EVERYTHING and all of the possible problems you may encounter.

Chapters

1. The Purpose of Lining a Garment
2. Jacket Linings
3. Coat Linings
4. Vest Linings
5. Skirt Linings
6. Pants Linings
7. Dress Linings
8. Sheer and Lace Garment Linings
9. Sweater Linings
10. Lining Vents

She gives precise instructions on how to make your own lining pattern; how to put them in by machine or hand sewing. If you enjoy wearing lined garments (as I do), this book is a must have.